In this first piece, we talk about the bike-photo combo, focusing on the topic of “photogenic bikes.” But we’re not looking for bikes that look best in selfies. The question is simple: if some cameras are more or less suited for taking photos while cycling, why shouldn’t there be bikes that are more or less photogenic—meaning, bikes that either help or hinder us when taking pictures while riding?
What are the key features to look for in a camera when taking photos while cycling? We'll discuss this in a second part! In the meantime, if you want to explore the topic further, here’s more:
- A very personal review of the Om1 mark II so far
- How is important customizing your camera.
Although the topic might seem futuristic, it is actually quite simple (and a little nerdy). The range of photographic equipment is vast, catering to every need and budget: weather-resistant, small, large, compact, with or without interchangeable lenses, and, of course, from dozens of brands, each with its own history and character.
The same goes for bikes—how many variations exist between classic road bikes and MTBs, which are further divided into countless categories? And we can all agree that a touring bike, designed for comfort and relaxation, is easier to ride than a track bike, right?
We’ve already talked about the ergonomics of a camera in relation to cycling—the key takeaway was that it’s important to choose carefully and then customize it based on how you shoot. Now, let’s flip the perspective and focus on the bike. Here too, ergonomics play a fundamental role.
So, let me start with two key points. First, some bikes are more suitable than others for taking photos while traveling. Second, I believe that the bike I ride (a Bombtrack Beyond 1) and the monstercross category in general are an excellent choice for this purpose.
A definition of monstercross comes from the most authoritative source, Bikepacking.com:
Drop-bar mountain bikes are one of the more popular manifestations, favored among Tour Dividers, weekend escapists, and those hellbent on a one-bike stable—especially the drop-bar 29er. In short, riders find these bikes both comfortable and efficient. So... are they photogenic bikes as well?
The key features include a tire width of 2.1”, plenty of mounts for bags and accessories, and a design focused on off-road capability and durability. In short, we’re in the broad world of gravel bikes, but not the sleek, race-oriented kind with 35mm tires. Instead, we’re talking about rugged machines—think of them as tractors with a generous 28-40 gear ratio and a wide handlebar. And a classic example of the kind of situations we find ourselves in is this one below —big thanks to Luigi for capturing the photographer in action!
Bombtrack Beyond: a great Bike to ride and shoot
I can’t take too much credit for choosing my bike. Back then (Christmas 2018), I had just started thinking about photography, but I wasn’t actually taking pictures yet. So, the reasons I chose the Beyond—after traveling with a few different hardtail MTBs—were the usual ones:
- Key technical features (a more forgiving geometry compared to an MTB, but with clearance for wide tires, low gearing, thru-axles, etc.).
- I liked the brand, a small company from Cologne, and the specific model. Plus, the two great launch videos by Marc Maurer were fantastic. The slogan “the Land Rover of bikes” won me over instantly.
- Comfortable but not overly off-road geometry: I was coming from two XC hardtails and wanted something smoother on pavement and less twitchy.
- The price: It was—and still is—one of the most affordable steel monstercross bikes, along with the Genesis Vagabond and Breezer Radar.
- Most of all, the deep midnight blue color, which captivated me from the first photo I saw.
It was a very lucky coincidence—in fact, looking back, I was incredibly fortunate. Things couldn’t have turned out better. If I had chosen a more “sporty” gravel bike, I’m not sure how many photos I would have taken. And who knows—maybe Cicloreporter wouldn’t even exist.
The Gear for the Bike, the Bike for the Gear
It might sound like an exaggeration, but not really. How many times have you heard of someone owning a great camera setup—maybe a high-end DSLR—only to say, “I never take it with me because it’s too heavy”? In that case, they might as well not have it at all.
I’ve been there too. Long before I started cycling, I had a Canon 1200D (an entry-level APS-C) with a couple of lenses. I enjoyed using a tiny 50mm f/2.8, but I barely touched the bulky 70-300mm telephoto because it was too big and heavy. And that was before I even got into cycling—so imagine now!
After that small camera kit was stolen, I replaced it with something compact—an Olympus EM10 MkII, which had just been released at the time. I knew nothing about it, and my photography skills were close to zero. But it was reasonably priced, and I trusted the shopkeeper’s advice.
Once again, I got lucky: it’s an entry-level camera that fits perfectly in a bottle-cage bag. So, when I started cycling, bringing it along was effortless—it just became second nature. Thanks to its lightweight and compact size, I began taking more and more photos, and here we are now.
Just as the right camera setup makes the difference between shooting or not, the right bike can also have a big impact. If I don’t feel comfortable taking photos while riding, chances are that after a couple of trips, I’ll just leave the camera at home—so much for ride photography.
Here’s a gallery of some shots taken with the simple EM10 and my super practical bike.
Some specs
1. A Forgiving Bike
Let’s break down a few key features that make the Beyond—and bikes like it—particularly well-suited for photography on the move.
- Long wheelbase = stability. With a chainstay of 455mm (for sizes M to XL), the Beyond sits firmly in the adventure/travel category of monstercross bikes. Its wheelbase is even longer than the classic Salsa Fargo or the Curve GMX—one of my dream bikes. It’s in the same league as the Surly ECR, a true bulldozer. A longer wheelbase means less agility and responsiveness (it’s not the most nimble bike on tight singletrack switchbacks), but it offers greater stability and, therefore, more confidence. At this point, short chainstays make me nervous.
- 29” wheels = inertia = stability. Aluminum rims are fantastic—not only are they much cheaper than carbon rims, but they’re also a bit heavier. How cool! Combined with generous tires, they provide incredible stability. I quickly fell in love with the Mezcal 2.1” and have barely changed them. On multiple occasions, I’ve hit potholes while holding my camera, and I could clearly feel the bike’s stability saving me. Of course, geometry plays the biggest role, but chunky tires are the cherry on top. Only for a few more performance-focused (and photo-free) rides did I switch to 44mm WTB Byways—like when I rode back from the Netherlands on asphalt or tackled the stunning Liguria Trail.
- Comfort = comfort. It might sound obvious—because it is—but let’s say it anyway: if I’m comfortable on my bike, I can work comfortably. That’s also why I love aero bars—not for the slight speed gain or lower heart rate (though those are nice side effects), but because they let me stretch out and rest during long rides.
2. Pro Tip: Tires and Stabilization
Talking about tires and shooting photos from the saddle brings to mind an essential detail: camera stabilization. These days, many models across different brands feature stabilization, but the differences are significant.
For example, colleagues have confirmed that Sony cameras up to the A7III have relatively weak stabilization, whereas newer models perform much better. Fuji does a solid job depending on the model, and the same now applies to Canon and Nikon. However, diving into all the details would be opening a Pandora’s box (some stabilizers can be set to work on just one axis, then there’s the combination of in-body and lens stabilization, and so on).
Suffice it to say, Olympus is the undisputed queen of stabilization—partly because stabilizing a smaller sensor is easier. This means you can shoot handheld at 2″ with a standard focal length or even at 1/8″ with a tele lens. Panasonic (Lumix) comes close, delivering excellent results as well.
On a bike, this means we hardly need to worry about vibrations, allowing us to shoot at very slow shutter speeds to create dynamic effects. Many of my shots—including those from Upcycle Trail Weekend, 150 Smiles, Dead Ends & Dolci, and Alvento POP—were taken at speeds ranging from 1/10″ to 1/90″.
3. Points of Comparison
In short, this isn’t the best bike for road riding, nor is it the top choice for technical singletrack. In fact, it’s not the best bike for anything—except for doing everything and staying in the saddle for long hours, even beyond 24 hours.
By contrast, riding a road bike has never given me a sense of security—it feels precarious and unstable. Taking photos while pedaling, which comes naturally on my gravel monster, was genuinely difficult.
I’ve also worked with an electric hardtail before (which was welcome, considering I had my full photography backpack with me), but even then, I didn’t feel the same level of confidence while riding.
4. After All…
It’s no coincidence that my Beyond is scratched, dented, and patched up with nail polish, with only the frame and a few bolts still original. To me, it’s an incredibly photogenic bike—not in the sense of looking good in pictures, but because it supports and helps me create photography and tell stories. Stories accumulated over 30,000+ km, keeping me company on every new ride.
Photogenic Bikes: A World of Possibilities
Beyond the love at first sight for my Beyond, we can extend the concept of photogenic bikes to the entire monstercross category. Whether it’s a carbon Cutthroat (another dream bike), a stainless steel Westlander, a titanium Chiru, a custom handmade frame, or anything else—if it’s comfortable, slightly on the heavy side, and rides smoothly, then it’s a bike that helps us photograph.
On the contrary, highly agile bikes, especially those with small wheels, make the necessary movements for taking photos a bit more precarious—so they aren’t exactly photogenic bikes. Think about it: you take a hand (or both) off the handlebars, open your pouch, grab your camera, turn it on, frame the shot, click, turn it off, put it back—all while taking your eyes off the road. It’s no surprise that these actions become even smoother when the bike is loaded with gear—all that extra mass helps keep the bike stable and glued to its trajectory.
Of course, personal taste and habits play a role, but in the end, the right bike can make all the difference in capturing moments on the move.
But I realize I’m stating the obvious. If my bike is my office, and in an office we don’t hesitate to invest in ergonomic chairs, then the same logic should apply to the bike. It doesn’t have a reclining seat or armrests (though aero bars do a decent job), and it has only two wheels instead of five or six—but the concept remains the same.
A Symbiotic Relationship: Tactical Accessories
Another question: In photography, some accessories might completely change the way we work. But some cycling accessories can also be repurposed for photography with great results. This way, our bikes become even more photogenic, piece by piece. It’s part technology, part creativity—simply using things in unconventional ways.
I’ve already talked at length about the EVOC hip pack, the most convenient way to carry gear (so far). But beyond that, what on or from the bike can help us how we shoot?
Dynamo
The most important accessory—and the last one to arrive due to its cost—is the dynamo. I recently got one—actually, just now—and I can’t wait to test it, paired with the Sinewave Beacon 2 light. I’ve been considering this project for a couple of years, but the rather high cost—about €1,000 for the light + wheel combo, and we’re talking about a standard aluminum rim—held me back until now. This year, I see it as more of a photographic investment than a cycling one. It’s an excuse, I know: I just wanted it for a long time. But anyway, on a multi-day trip, I’ll only bring one extra battery in case the first one has issues (which has never happened), relying entirely on the dynamo for everything else. We’ll see, but I have pretty high expectations.
A Minimal Guide to Dynamo and Lights
Before making this investment, I did my homework, researching all the different dynamo/light models and the many available options (there are tons), reading reviews, and especially firsthand accounts. Below are all the precise links. As of February 2025, here’s the general conclusion:
There are dynamos, and then there’s the dynamo. The first category includes SP (Shutter Precision) and Shimano, while the second is SON, a German brand which makes two models: Delux and 28. The latter is optimized to generate more power at low speeds, while the Delux is slightly lighter. However, both create much less resistance (i.e., power loss) compared to competitors from other brands. So, despite being more expensive, they are definitely the best investment. In fact, everyone I know (and follow) has chosen this German brand.
Once you’ve picked the dynamo, you can go all out creating your dream wheel by selecting rims and spokes from the many available options. Wanting to avoid that rabbit hole of options, I opted for the easy route by purchasing a pre-built wheel. Since I already have a great pair of Hunt wheels (and since I like both their performance and customer service—something not to be taken for granted), I naturally went with Hunt again, and again with the Superdura Dynamo Disc model. There aren’t many brands offering complete dynamo wheels, so the choice was straightforward.
The same pattern applies to lights. There are many great dynamo-powered lights, but currently, only two models can also distribute power, meaning they allow you to charge a power bank (and thus a camera, Wahoo, or phone) when they don’t need power. And the winners are… drumroll… the Sinewave Beacon 2 (from a small Boston-based company) and the Australian K-lite. Guess what? Neither is cheap, but at least they eliminate the need for a third component to manage electricity, simplifying the setup.
References:
- SON nabendynamo
- Bp.com – inside SON
- Bp.com – guide to dynamo
- Bp.com – review hunt superdura dynamo
- drag dynamo comparison
- sito Sinewave
- sito K-lite
Bags
There are pros and cons to carrying photography gear in bike bags. The advantage is that it’s easily accessible; the downside is that it gets exposed to a lot of vibrations—too many. So, it works well for road cycling or touring, but if “gravel” means military roads and single tracks, it’s best to avoid it.
That said, the two most useful bike bags for photography IMHO are the top tube bag and the handlebar bottle-cage bag. I’ve used both at different times to carry my camera, and now I use them for accessories. Their main advantage is that they let you grab or stash items instantly while riding. To be precise, I own a Revelate Mag2000 (the one where Lael Wilcox stashed french fries on the Tour Divide), and a very cheap (yet well built) Acepac Fat Bottle Bag.
The handlebar bag offers a bit more protection since it’s suspended and secured with fabric, which absorbs some shocks (unlike the top tube bag, which offers none). Its cylindrical shape makes it perfect for holding an extra lens or, in my case, a small camera. Back then, I used the EM10, but nowadays, I’d recommend the OM5: it has the same dimensions but is weather-sealed and dustproof, with some other interesting travel-focused features.
Lights
As excited as I am to work and travel with the dynamo/light setup, I’ll still carry a battery-powered light for a while. More and more, I find myself using it handheld to creatively illuminate subjects. My current choice is the Moon Rigel Pro—lightweight and powerful, though with a slightly narrow beam. But really, any will do—they’re small, handy, and a great extra tool for shooting. The only important feature is that attaching/detaching it must be easy, otherwise you can’t use it as an extra continuous light when you need it. No Gopro screws, for example.
The Elephant in the Room: Photogenic Bikes & Action Cams
One obvious thing is missing: bikes are the perfect platform for action cams. Every brand offers accessories to mount their cameras almost anywhere—from the handlebars to the rear triangle—for all sorts of angles. I haven’t mentioned them because I’ve chosen not to use action cams so far, but it would be a shame not to take advantage of the many mounting possibilities a bike offers.
Some models—like the DJI Action 4—even have a magnetic base, making it possible to attach them directly to the frame without extra mounts.
Conclusion: Are Photogenic Bikes a Useful Reference—Or Maybe Not?
At the end of the day, all our choices depend on how much we like shooting during our rides. I realize that my perspective is quite extreme: since shooting on the bike is also my job, I tend to obsess over these details.
But seeing an “extreme” approach can help deciding whether that direction excites us—or if we’d rather stop before going that far. So, if photography plays a role in how you ride, some of these insights might be useful. Or, maybe, you’ll realize that shooting while cycling has never felt right simply because you hadn’t considered some technical aspects of your bike setup.
That said, there’s a vast ocean of experiences out there, and I’m sure there are just as many smart setups and solutions. If you’d like to share your experience, go for it! And in the meantime, see you out there—camera in hand! 🚴📸
