Have you already tried with your camera?
I am persuaded that customizing the camera is key to an effective workflow. It’s not a simple bonus, a “cool extra feature” on the camera package: it can make or break a photography routine. At least, this has been my own experience so far. By customizing my cameras over the last couple years (Olympus 1mkII and 1mkIII), I am now faster and more effective, from when I turn on the camera until the editing workflow on the computer. Here is my personal journey into customization: hopefully, it will save you some time and pain!
One example? I deactivated the touch screen on all my cameras: being left-eyed, my nose always came in the way, moving the focus point or activating other options.
Customize your camera
as you would customize your bike
Modes: panning on C1 & C2
The easiest way to customize your camera is with the classic “C” custom modes (4 on the Em1.III and the Om1, less on the EM5 and Om5. Most cameras have at least one). In my case, after many trials, I have 2 modes ready with panning settings, one “traditional” and one that I’m experimenting on, with a selection of less focus points on the grid (see picture below). This is because it takes less time to change the focus from side to side. Beyond this difference in the focus grid, they have the same parameters:
- Shutter priority,
- 1/60,
- stabilization: vertical only
- auto-iso (up to 4000),
- no face priority,
- single point C-AF.
This customization (paired with a quick recall button – see below) allows me to instantly change from any mode to a panning setup: in my works, this small feature is extremely useful.
A third C is for general portraits, with face recognition ON, 1/500, Iso200, single point C-AF. The fourth (on my EM1mkIII) is still empty, but I plan to use it for a client requiring specific output settings.
Different shooting modes or different outputs?
This media agency has a very precise workflow, and it requires an output of Jpeg-only, 2/3 format (instead of the default 4/3), a specific color profile (I usually shoot with a desaturated and less contrasted Jpeg), as well as special saving settings on each SD card. For this reason, I am wondering to use C4 for this specific setup, which would save some time every time that I have to change this parameters on my custom modes. Moreover, it would reduce the possibility of forgetting these settings for works that require a more classic workflow.
The backdraw, of course, is that I coulnd’t use other custom modes (such as panning or simply S-priority) in combination with that. If I want to do some pannings for this agency, I have to save these parameters on my C modes.
On most advanced cameras, each and every button can be modified. My advice is, each and every button should be modified to tailor the camera according to your specific needs. This means exploring different setups when you’re in a relaxed situation and you can afford losing some pictures in the process.
SD cards settings
A few words about this small but crucial parameter. I use 2 cards on my EM1s, and the standard setup is this one:
- slot 1. Angelbird V60 (fast, but not the fastest: 170mb/s, enough to manage bursts in L mode), RAW.
- slot2. Sandisk V30 200 (or 170) mb/s, 64/128GB, JPEG superfine.
This setting provides me with a backup in case the main card fails; but, equally important, I can export JPEGs on my phone and give the client some snapshots to use on social media, directly during the event (I recently discovered the “share order” option, and wow, it saves tons of time!).
Trial and error (but mostly time and patience)
It took a while and a lot of fiddling with the camera, but now I am satisfied with these customizations. At the beginning, it was just about a few buttons. But month after month I changed, adapted, perfected the ergonomics; after all these layers layers of modifications, the camera became something totally different. Last week I brought the camera to a photo shop to be cleaned: The guy told me “well, I disassembled and cleaned it all, then I panicked because I couldn’t turn it ON – It took me an hour to find the right button.
How the hell does it work?
It took me an hour to find out how to turn it on!
Olympus EM1 Mark III customization example
As a mere example, here is my setup on the Em1mkIII, which I heavily customized over time starting from the ON/OFF button.
PLEASE NOTE. The Em1mkII is the same as long as the hardware allows it. Also, on the older model there are a few lesser options to customize some buttons, so it has been impossible to “mirror” exactly the newer camera.
PLEASE NOTE #2. This is about Olympus EM1, but almost any camera can be customized in some degree.
Custom buttons – front view:
- upper button: ISO selection (push + arrows)
Custom buttons – back view:
- AEL/AFL lever: ON/OFF, so that I can turn on the camera single-handedly.
- AEL/AFL button: recall C2 Mode (panning)
- LV button–> HDR on/off (it just recalls the HDR, so it depends on what kind of HDR you chose.
- ISO button (right): I don’t use it because of grip reasons, due to how I keep the camera in my hand.
Custom buttons – upper view:
- LV button–> HDR on/off (it just recalls the HDR, so it depends on what kind of HDR you chose previously.
- AF button and sequential shoot button: I almost never use it, since this parameter are already embedded in the C1, C2 and C3 modes; when I need to change this in M or S modes, I do it via the super control panel (OK+ arrows).
- L-FN button (only on some PRO lenses): used to activate the focus peaking feature.
- C1 – portrait mode
- C2, C3 – panning mode (one is a test)
- C4 – I may use it for specific outputs (card savings, JPEG 2/3 format, and color profile.
- Exposure compensation button: I don’t need it, so I use it to activate the face recognition.
extra custom?
As you might know, almost everything I use is customized to make the job easier, faster or better. This includes other stuff on my camera (such as energy saving settings, EVF, etc.), but also straps, belts, backpacks, and so on. If you want to find some information, check here the gear I use.
Enough said! I am curious to know how you customized your camera, and what kind of solutions & combinations are useful for your workflow. There’s a lot to learn by sharing each other’s way of shooting.
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